To outsiders, East Jakarta is a postcard of poverty: narrow alleys choked with motorbike fumes, laundry lines strung like surrender flags between concrete walls, and the humid stench of bakso carts mingling with diesel. It’s the neighborhood your middle-class aunt warns you about—“Jangan kesana, bahaya!”—while clutching her pearl necklace. But peel past the “slum” label, and you’ll […]